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Sustainable fashion series – 3. How textile is produced and how to maintain it

In this part we focus on the materials and their production used in various textiles, specially or most often in clothing.

With careful maintenance considering the materials’ requirements we can extend the usability of textile items significantly. Thus lowering the need for new items and their production. One can do a little and together we can make a significant difference.

The materials mentioned in the following:

  • natural fibers: cotton, linen, wool (including cashmere, mohair), silk.
  • Chemical fibers from natural polymers: viscose, lyocell, modal.
  • Chemical fibers from synthesized polymers: polyester, polyamide, acrylic, polypropylene, elastane.

The production of man-made fibers from natural fibers and synthesized polymers is relatively simple, which means fast fashion. The impact of different fibers on the environment varies from one material to another. Textile waste is a major environmental problem, second only to discarded plastic. It is important to know the properties and thus maintenance of textiles and fabrics made from different fibers.

Natural fibers are based on cellulose (plant) and protein (animal). They are biodegradable, but have a negative impact during the production process due to the need for large amounts of water, surfactants, detergents, dyes, pesticides, antibiotics and many other chemicals. More than 10.000 substances are classified as textile dyes. Not to mention the abuse and killing of animals, both directly and indirectly through destroying the natural environments.

Chemical fibers from synthesized polymers are not biodegradable and also have a large negative impact in the production process, same reasons as mentioned above in bold.

The process of dyeing often requires large amounts of water, which is then released back into the environment, polluting the water bodies in the wider area.

Cotton

is obtained from the seeds of the cotton plant. It is an example of devastation, left behind by intensive agriculture. Grown conventionally it requires large amounts of pesticides, whereas organic is expensive, both for the farmers for buying and maintaining the seeds and for the end consumers. In organic farming, fewer chemicals are used, but still just as much water, from several 1000 l, up to 29.000 l per kg. The garment is then made after weaving it; dyes, prints, caps require chemicals, synthetic pigments, detergents, heavy metals and alkalis.

Texile maintenance: withstands high temperature, so it can be washed, dried and ironed at high temperatures.

Disadvantage: shrinks when washed and dries slowly, creases, ironing required.

Linen

a sustainable fabric, if processed without chemicals, grows without fertilizer, needs little water, but requires intense dyes.

Texile maintenance: shrinks when washed, bleach damages fibers, wrinkles, but can be ironed at high temperatures.

Hemp

durable textile, the plant grows without rot, so no treatment in that regard, requires little watering.

Texile maintenance: undemanding, wash and dry at 60 °C, iron damp fabrics.

Cotton, linen and hemp fabrics are durable and long-lasting.

Bamboo

needs little water and grows quickly. Fundamentally sustainable, but not in the case of being grown in an extensive mono culture. A more delicate fabric.

Texile maintenance: wash at 40 °C, do not dry clean and tumble dry. The maximum ironing temperature is 150 °C, requires covering the items with a cotton cloth. No steaming.

Wool

immediately after shearing it contains traces of anti parasitic drugs. The main polluting problems are the maintenance of the herd, requiring large areas and also the processing of the material.

Textile maintenance: washing as little as possible, if possible just brush the stains off. Air dry only, on a flat surface, do not hang to avoid undesired stretching, do not dry in direct sunlight as it will cause shrinking. Drying is quick in air humidity up to 50 %, do not iron (it also requires none).

Cashmere wool

cashmere goats have very little body fat, so if they are sheared too early, they suffer from the cold and can die. Farming these goats causes problems in the grasslands where they graze, especially on the Alashan Plateau. Due to the increase in demand, breeding has increased. By increasing the scale of goat farming, this contributes to the degradation of the grassland and accelerates the spread of the desert. Increasingly frequent droughts and dust storms cause problems for local dwellers; wildlife and humans. We discussed this topic here, concentrating on the way breeding of these animals affects snow leopards and their entire ecosystems.

Texile maintenance: more care needed, hand wash in lukewarm water, do not wring, just wrap in a towel. Dry on a flat surface, do not hang. Dry cleaning allowed or recommended. The nature of this material is that the fuzzballs appear quickly (after every wear) and regular debobbling is required in order to maintain the original look of the garment.

Mohair

dries slowly, creases less. To produce half a kg of mohair, goats need about 24 kg of fodder from the land (grasses). Farming these goats causes soil degradation due to the excessive numbers of herds and grazing.

Texile maintenance: similar to the care of wool pieces, dry cleaning is also allowed. Air dry only, no ironing required.

Silk

the most sustainable fiber, the least amount of water, chemicals and energy is used in its production in comparison to other fibers. There are several smooth and rough versions of the fabric.

Texile maintenance: very demanding, finer, more delicate. It doesn’t withstand mechanical loads, stretching – the surface becomes uneven. Washing on the silk or wool program without detergent, air dry, iron on silk program.

Viscose

prone to wrinkling, high absorbency. Obtained by chemically processing cellulose (beech, pine, bamboo) with toxic chemicals. Production requires use of sodium hydroxide, carbon disulfide and sulfuric acid. It is biodegradable.

Texile maintenance: low strength, great care is required when washing. Wash at max 40 °C, otherwise it may shrink significantly.

Lyocell

similar to silk, from cellulose of eucalyptus. In production, n-methylmorpholine n-oxide is used as a solvent. The same production process as viscose, but it uses a different type of solvent that can also be recycled.

Texile maintenance: simple because it is durable and stable, maintenance is the same as for viscose products.

Modal

soft and smooth, similar to viscose, wrinkle and shrinkage resistance and non-iron resistance. It is more resistant to shrinkage than cotton and tends to pill less due to stronger fibers and lower surface friction. Obtained by chemically processing cellulose of beech with toxic chemicals. Production requires the use of sodium hydroxide, carbon disulfide and sulfuric acid. It is biodegradable.

Texile maintenance: as it retains its shape, it can be washed and dried by machine. Wash in cold water, use regular detergent, a gentle cycle and low to medium heat when machine drying.

Polyester

elastic, strong, does not shrink. During production, which requires large amounts of energy, environmentally hazardous substances are released: antimony, cobalt, manganese salts, sodium bromide, titanium dioxide. Mostly used in fiber blends, clothing, protective clothing, home textiles, floor coverings, automotive fabrics, technical products, threads. Not biodegradable. When disposed, they usually burn it, releasing toxic gases and chemicals into the soil and air.

Texile maintenance: simple, fast drying, do not iron (also requires none).

Polyamide

hard, flexible, does not wrinkle and shrink, but discolours. The polymer is produced from oil in a high energy-consuming process. Emits micro plastic with each wash. Not biodegradable. Used for clothing and home textiles.

Texile maintenance: fibers are sensitive to high temperatures, so wash and iron at lower temperatures.

Acrylic

dries quickly, sensitive to higher temperatures. Non-renewable resource, is recyclable, but in the processs it releases a lot of toxic gas. During production carbon dioxide, monoxide, formaldehyde and solid compounds are released, all of which are, of course, very harmful to the environment.

Texile maintenance: does not wrinkle or shrink, sensitive to higher temperatures, wash at a maximum of 40 °C, iron without steam at the lowest temperature.

Elastane

made of polyurethane, thermoplastic. Acquisition is difficult. Various toxic chemicals, harmful to the environment, are used. Not biodegradable. It is never used on its own, only in mixtures with other fibers to improve the stretchability so textile maintenance depends on the mixture but generally: to maintain the elasticity always wash with cold water, inside a mesh garment bag and air-dry. Wash with mild detergent.

Microfiber

made of polyester, acrylic, polyamide and chemical cellulose fibers. Microfibers are released into water, containing harmful chemicals that are added to the textile during the production process.

Texile maintenance: insensitive to temperatures, should not be washed together with cotton because the microfibers stick to it.

All of the listed materials are sensitive to chlorine (bleach) and saturated oils (sunscreens), these will weaken and discolour the fibers.

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